From the Archives
Endless Winter
June 25, 2009
This article was originally published a year ago in issue 4 of travel magazine Everywhere. I have updated the content and photos for the web, but the theme is as relevant now as it was then.
With summer heating up in North America and Europe, this is a time when avid skiers and snowboarders are starting to suffer some serious withdrawal symptoms: The season ended months ago, and it’ll be months before the snow starts falling again. There may be hiking, or mountain biking, or even indoor skiing on hand, but frankly, it’s just not the same. For anyone who can’t wait to get a proper fix, the snow in New Zealand’s stunning Tongariro National Park beckons.
Located smack in the middle of New Zealand’s North Island, Tongariro National Park sports a trio of active volcanoes: Flat-topped Tongariro, cone-shaped Ngauruhoe and towering Ruapehu. New Zealand’s two largest ski areas—Turoa and Whakapapa—occupy the slopes of Mount Ruapehu. The season here runs from July to October. During the first few months, the weather can be unpredictable and the trails tend to be hard-packed and icy. But as New Zealand’s spring approaches, the fierce sun turns the snow into a grainy slush, which makes for fantastic backcountry riding. In a good year, the ski areas open for summer skiing as late as December, and the snow gets progressively more buttery, until the ski season segues perfectly into the surf season.
More than anything, though, skiing in Tongariro National Park is about the nature experience. In winter, the rugged, volcanic landscape around Mount Ruapehu’s peak softens out into swooping ridges and smooth bowls. Both ski areas offer expansive views of New Zealand’s North Island, and intrepid riders can hike to 9177ft Tahurangi Peak for glacier skiing and plenty of crisp, fresh air. Even the access roads are beautiful, winding first through lush, native forest packed with ancient trees and giant tree ferns, then a barren landscape of black, jagged boulders—some of which were launched from the crater during volcanic eruptions.
I’ve spent several seasons skiing in Tongariro National Park, and I’m in love with the altitude, the wide vistas, the soft spring snow and the unique terrain of a living, breathing volcano. It’s a remarkable place to experience, and for travelers from the Northern Hemisphere, the chance to do some off-season skiing is icing on the cake.
For ski area information, trail maps, weather reports, volcano safety guidelines and more, visit the Mount Ruapehu website. And for additional photos, check out the Mount Ruapehu gallery.
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